Tooling

The heel library

Six families already tooled and in production. Using one of them removes the tooling cost from a first collection entirely, which for most new labels is the difference between a four-style range and a two-style range.

Stiletto 85
ST-85

Stiletto 85

Covered or exposed steel-shanked stiletto, the workhorse of the library.

85 mm · steel shank · ABS or wood core
Stiletto 100
ST-100

Stiletto 100

The same family taken to full height, with a reworked pitch to keep the ball load bearable.

100 mm · steel shank · ABS core
Kitten 45
KT-45

Kitten 45

A low tapered heel that photographs slim and walks like a flat.

45 mm · unshanked · ABS core
Block 60
BL-60

Block 60

Square-section block with a squared top piece, our most requested silhouette since 2021.

60 mm · half shank · wood or ABS
Flare 70
FL-70

Flare 70

A flared heel that widens at the top piece; harder to mould, easier to wear.

70 mm · half shank · wood core
Platform 110
PF-110

Platform 110

Platform and heel pitched as a pair, with a 30 mm front sole to hold the angle.

110 mm · 30 mm platform · steel shank

Specification, side by side

CodeFamilyHeightCore and shank
ST-85Stiletto 8585 mmsteel shank / ABS or wood core
ST-100Stiletto 100100 mmsteel shank / ABS core
KT-45Kitten 4545 mmunshanked / ABS core
BL-60Block 6060 mmhalf shank / wood or ABS
FL-70Flare 7070 mmhalf shank / wood core
PF-110Platform 110110 mm30 mm platform / steel shank

New tooling

A new heel profile is modelled here, cut as a prototype in wood or resin, then sent for injection tooling with a partner in the province. Budget six to eight weeks and a tooling charge that depends on the profile; a straight taper is cheap, a compound curve with a metal cap is not.

Pitch, which nobody asks about and everybody feels

Heel height alone does not determine comfort. The pitch — how the last drops from heel seat to toe — does, along with where the load sits on the ball of the foot. Two 100 mm courts on different lasts can be an hour apart in wearability. We calculate pitch as part of last selection, and it is the reason the first prototype round is about shape only.

Top pieces and repairs

All library heels take a standard replaceable top piece, in rubber or in leather with a rubber insert. This matters more than it sounds: a heel with a proprietary top piece cannot be repaired by a cobbler anywhere, and that becomes a customer service problem for your brand rather than for ours.